08 April 2009

That Ain't No KKK

Semana Santa=Holy Week=A Crazy Sevilla

Tourists flock from all parts of the world to be here this week to watch human carried floats(pasos) and the hooded Nazarenos walk the streets, making a loop between their respective churches, the Catedral, and then back to their churches. It makes traffic a nightmare and Sevillan city-life come to a halt. Also it means a second Spring Break for meeeeeeeee!

I really can't describe this Catholic tradition very good because unless you are here in person or have been here in person, or are a native Sevillian, you won't understand. But go to this website and it can explain anything you want to know> http://www.exploreseville.com/events/semana-santa.htm

These pasos weigh from 2 to almost 4 tons, and are carried by 30-40 men, depending on each paso. There are 56 Brotherhoods walking this year, and each Brotherhood has their own unique outfit-hmm, that looks familiar...the pointed hood, the white or black shroud...KKK anyone?

The pasos that I have seen have been about 8x15 foot, and are adorned with silver, gold, and flowers. And that precious metal isn't just plating, it is solid.

The first procession, or cofradiato to leave was on Palm Sunday, and is called "La Borriquita", and depicts Jesus riding into Jerusalem on a donkey-hence the name. I saw this one, along with a lot of little children. It is traditionally the kid's paso. I've also seen "El Beso de Judas", "Jesus de Las Penas", and "San Benito". Most of the Brotherhoods date back centuries, with the "Vera Cruz" paso having been built in the 14th Century! Each paso except for La Borriquita is followed by a Virgin Mary paso. I think I like these more than the actual Jesus scenes.

Even though I've only seen about 4 or 5 cofradiatos out of the more than 56, I have no desire to see more. The crowds are completely awful, and since I am short, it isn't worth it unless I have the front row of the street, and then, people get really pushy and abnoxious and it takes about 30 mintues to walk a block. I'm not exaggerating. Yesterday I really needed to go take a picture of a landmark in Sevilla for school, but instead I ran into yet another paso with its crowds of people directly blocking the street I needed to get across. I gave up and went home. They are everywhere around the city right now and tomorrow(Thursday) and Friday are the most action packed with round the clock pasos who leave their church at 7PM and get back at 7AM.

It takes so long because the men who carry them can only walk about 50 yards or so with all that weight on their backs. Then they set the paso down and take a breather, then pick it up with a dramatic flare(insert applauding auidence) and walk 50 more yards. Repeat.

I am leaving for my Italy trip tomorrow and should have plenty of interesting stories and pictures. I head first to Florence, then Venice, then Pisa and back to Sevilla on Tuesday.

Love you all and have a great weekend. I will think of you while I'm eating fresh Italian food!

-cor

Below: A Virgin Mary paso resting, the officials relighting candles, and then the lift off. Pretty dramatic. Oh, and these crowds were nothing. I will post pictures later, it isn't letting me right now and I need a siesta.

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